Thursday, August 26, 2010
Ok, that didn't work...
I went out to the shed today where the 3D deer is. Well, the plastic expanded and popped the duct tape off in a single piece. With the visqueen hanging out it kinda looked like the deer's guts were spilling out. A little odd to see when I walked into a poorly lit shed. I will probably try again with less plastic. Given how much stopping power it had before, I can probably like with a little more arrow penetration. I'll update again after the next repair.
Sunday, August 22, 2010
Archery Targets
I am cheap. Despite my overindulgence in buying hunting equipment, I would really rather not spend anything on whatever I want to do. Case in point- archery targets. I've purchased a block-style target from Sportsman's Warehouse and a Legend Deer from my local archery shop. But neither was really suitable for field points because the foam held on to the arrow too tightly, and neither stood up to broadheads for very long.
I needed a backstop for these targets (because I'm in a suburban area) and it couldn't be too rough on the arrows, while still being able to stop them (65# compound). I made a frame out of 2x4s and draped old carpet over the frame. This gives 4 layers of carpet with a 4 by 5 foot window to shoot into. If I miss completely most arrows with field points will only go in as deep as the fletching. The trick is to not miss.
So what to do about field-point-friendly targets? The local shop sold a burlap sack with the image of an animal printed on it. The theory is that you stuff the sack with loose plastic and shoot away. Guess what- you can stuff a lot of things with loose plastic and shoot arrows at them.
I tried this first with cat litter bags. They're basically a plastic burlap, and they're free with the purchase of my cats' litter. I turned one inside out, stuffed it with plastic bags from the grocery store, stomped on it to compress the grocery bags and then stuffed in some more. Duct tape keeps these closed pretty well. They don't work at all for broadheads, but they do a remarkable job of stopping field tips. Plus, when the outer bag is used up (and it will be) the bags can be reused in another bag. If they get too wet, the inner bags get funky and are reusable, but kind of gross. Leaving them in the weather makes them brittle. Pieces of blue painter's tape make great targeting spots.
Since the proof of concept worked, I thought I would try to repair my 3D buck's vitals area. They're super hard to find, and expensive ($50) when I could find them. But- brown duct tape is available from Amazon. I taped over the back of the vitals' opening, making several layers to help keep the plastic from poking through. Then I laid the target on the ground, stuffed the opening with clear visqueen, stomped on that and stuffed in more. I think I ended up making five layers over the front. The brown isn't perfect, but it doesn't look too kludged, either. It was getting dark, but I put the deer in front of the backstop and gave it a shot. The arrow only penetrated 3". I am very pleased with my work, and repairs are super easy with more layers of tape.
If you try this, or come up with your own variation, let me know how it works for you.
I needed a backstop for these targets (because I'm in a suburban area) and it couldn't be too rough on the arrows, while still being able to stop them (65# compound). I made a frame out of 2x4s and draped old carpet over the frame. This gives 4 layers of carpet with a 4 by 5 foot window to shoot into. If I miss completely most arrows with field points will only go in as deep as the fletching. The trick is to not miss.
So what to do about field-point-friendly targets? The local shop sold a burlap sack with the image of an animal printed on it. The theory is that you stuff the sack with loose plastic and shoot away. Guess what- you can stuff a lot of things with loose plastic and shoot arrows at them.
I tried this first with cat litter bags. They're basically a plastic burlap, and they're free with the purchase of my cats' litter. I turned one inside out, stuffed it with plastic bags from the grocery store, stomped on it to compress the grocery bags and then stuffed in some more. Duct tape keeps these closed pretty well. They don't work at all for broadheads, but they do a remarkable job of stopping field tips. Plus, when the outer bag is used up (and it will be) the bags can be reused in another bag. If they get too wet, the inner bags get funky and are reusable, but kind of gross. Leaving them in the weather makes them brittle. Pieces of blue painter's tape make great targeting spots.
Since the proof of concept worked, I thought I would try to repair my 3D buck's vitals area. They're super hard to find, and expensive ($50) when I could find them. But- brown duct tape is available from Amazon. I taped over the back of the vitals' opening, making several layers to help keep the plastic from poking through. Then I laid the target on the ground, stuffed the opening with clear visqueen, stomped on that and stuffed in more. I think I ended up making five layers over the front. The brown isn't perfect, but it doesn't look too kludged, either. It was getting dark, but I put the deer in front of the backstop and gave it a shot. The arrow only penetrated 3". I am very pleased with my work, and repairs are super easy with more layers of tape.
If you try this, or come up with your own variation, let me know how it works for you.
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
Uncle Ted....
This was on today's Yahoo news feed. I'm not generally a big fan of the Nuge, but I give him complete credit for being upstanding about his error, admitting that it was his error in not knowing the regs, and paying his fine. Maybe next time he'll go feral pig hunting so he can get an animal with some meat on its bones (and fat to grind with his venison sausages).
Ted Nugent takes responsibility for deer baiting
1 hr 16 mins ago
MARYSVILLE, Calif. – Ted Nugent says he should have been better informed about California game laws after pleading no contest to misdemeanor charges of deer-baiting.
Nugent said on his website Wednesday that he takes full responsibility for the hunting incident televised on a February episode of his Outdoor Channel hunting show.
California game wardens watching the show saw Nugent kill an immature buck during the hunt in Northern California. Investigators found that the deer had been eating bait before being killed.
Baiting wildlife is illegal in California.
Nugent pleaded no contest last week to baiting the deer and not having a properly signed hunting tag. A Yuba County Superior Court judge ordered Nugent to pay a $1,750 fine.
Ted Nugent takes responsibility for deer baiting
1 hr 16 mins ago
MARYSVILLE, Calif. – Ted Nugent says he should have been better informed about California game laws after pleading no contest to misdemeanor charges of deer-baiting.
Nugent said on his website Wednesday that he takes full responsibility for the hunting incident televised on a February episode of his Outdoor Channel hunting show.
California game wardens watching the show saw Nugent kill an immature buck during the hunt in Northern California. Investigators found that the deer had been eating bait before being killed.
Baiting wildlife is illegal in California.
Nugent pleaded no contest last week to baiting the deer and not having a properly signed hunting tag. A Yuba County Superior Court judge ordered Nugent to pay a $1,750 fine.
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
A little different
I've been considering squirrel hunting this past week. Seems easy enough- they're basically a pest and they're everywhere. Before you go calling your local PD to have me arrested, I'm not talking about going to a local park and opening fire. These would be woodland critters- freerange, organic woodland critters. I've been looking up recipes and have even come up with a suitable culinary term "Aquerne," the olde English term for the buggers.
Of course, I can claim that I'm doing my part to reduce the population of an animal that has successfully ousted the local squirrels. But mostly it's because I'm curious what they taste like and there's a trend in Europe (the U,K. anyway) toward serving them in restaurants. Learning to skin and tan the hides will be good experience, too.
I think I'll bring the old WZ-48 22lr rifle and give it a test- I'll leave the scoped 10/22 in the cabinet for now.
Of course, I can claim that I'm doing my part to reduce the population of an animal that has successfully ousted the local squirrels. But mostly it's because I'm curious what they taste like and there's a trend in Europe (the U,K. anyway) toward serving them in restaurants. Learning to skin and tan the hides will be good experience, too.
I think I'll bring the old WZ-48 22lr rifle and give it a test- I'll leave the scoped 10/22 in the cabinet for now.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Financial considerations
The wife and I have been considering buying a 1/4 or 1/2 beef. The good news is that all of the local places I've looked at online claim to only grass feed the cows, they're processed locally and we'd have an inkling of what's in the meat we'd be eating. The most expensive has been $4 per pound and they claim their halves are about 300-350 pounds (place "A"). The least expensive has been about $2.65 per pound, plus 53 cents per pound for butchering and their halves are closer to 250 pounds, as I recall (place "B"). All weights are "hanging weight," which means you lose about 25% of that weight during the butchering process.
So that's $800-$1400 for a half of a cow, ranging from 188 to 262 pounds of meat, making the actual per pound price $4.26 (place "B") to 5.34 (place "A"). Of course, every half cow has its own cost and the cost will likely increase each time we buy.
Let's compare to my hunting adventures. I've figured that I've spent about $2100 so far on equipment and licenses. Yes, I went overboard and I certainly could have done it cheaper (especially in terms of hunting clothes- that's a later entry). But it is what it is. Let's say that I down a 150# blacktail. Estimates of loss are at 50% of pre-field-dressed weight. so that's 75# of butchered meat, a skin for tanning and I'm sure I can have whtever bones and sinews I want (I'd keep the head for the skull and horns). But sticking just to the meat, my first deer would cost $28 per pound. Each deer thereafer is approximately exponentially cheaper per pound: $14, $7, $3.50, $1.75, 88cents.... I'm heartened by the math! If I keep my gear for 18 years like my hunting buddy, and if I get soemthing each year, the meat is practically free in 10 years. There's maintenance to the bow (string replacement every other year, silencers, etc) and arrows (but I have over a dozen that are suitable for hunting) and broadheads (half dozen plus replacement blades in store) to consider and they are what make the reduction in cost each year "almost" exponential. Oh and butchering is around 75 cents a pound at the place that's nearest me, so that should be figured in so as to make as direct a comparison as possible.
So that's $800-$1400 for a half of a cow, ranging from 188 to 262 pounds of meat, making the actual per pound price $4.26 (place "B") to 5.34 (place "A"). Of course, every half cow has its own cost and the cost will likely increase each time we buy.
Let's compare to my hunting adventures. I've figured that I've spent about $2100 so far on equipment and licenses. Yes, I went overboard and I certainly could have done it cheaper (especially in terms of hunting clothes- that's a later entry). But it is what it is. Let's say that I down a 150# blacktail. Estimates of loss are at 50% of pre-field-dressed weight. so that's 75# of butchered meat, a skin for tanning and I'm sure I can have whtever bones and sinews I want (I'd keep the head for the skull and horns). But sticking just to the meat, my first deer would cost $28 per pound. Each deer thereafer is approximately exponentially cheaper per pound: $14, $7, $3.50, $1.75, 88cents.... I'm heartened by the math! If I keep my gear for 18 years like my hunting buddy, and if I get soemthing each year, the meat is practically free in 10 years. There's maintenance to the bow (string replacement every other year, silencers, etc) and arrows (but I have over a dozen that are suitable for hunting) and broadheads (half dozen plus replacement blades in store) to consider and they are what make the reduction in cost each year "almost" exponential. Oh and butchering is around 75 cents a pound at the place that's nearest me, so that should be figured in so as to make as direct a comparison as possible.
Monday, January 5, 2009
Snow- ugh!
Well, it's looking like the snow isn't going to be good for the deer populations. I picked a helluva year to start hunting. Nothing to do but wait until September, I suppose.
I need to call WDFW to submit my "hunting" report- I wonder what they'll ask.
Edit- hey, I did it online AND I got a bonus entry into the deer special hunts for this year. Maybe I'll get a chance to traipse through some unfamiliar territory and then come home empty handed :)
I need to call WDFW to submit my "hunting" report- I wonder what they'll ask.
Edit- hey, I did it online AND I got a bonus entry into the deer special hunts for this year. Maybe I'll get a chance to traipse through some unfamiliar territory and then come home empty handed :)
Monday, December 22, 2008
Not about deer...
Last month I got a great idea... since it's illegal in WA to use full metal jacket (FMJ) ammo I needed to find something that was affordable enough to practice with but also suitable for hunting. The 203gr Silver Bear ammo isn't expensive but it's 203 grain- the closest I have for practice is 182gr Bulgarian milsurp.
Enter Midway USA. I had talked about reloading earlier this year when I was really, really into guns and their gadgets. With that in mind I ordered a basic Lee loading press (the 40th anniversary pack that included the reloading manual), a bullet puller, the loading dies for 7.62x54R and 300 Speer 150gr soft point spitzer point Japanese 303 (.311) bullets. Phew! That's a lot of jargon.
I read the manual while waiting for a ferry on the night before opening day of late season. That's a LOT of info, but frankly it's mostly how great the Lee company is and the history of their products. It's also fairly intimidating- you can see where the company is coming from.
I put the press in the closet with my hunting stuff- I won't be doing any 'yote hunting this year so I don't need any soft points. Plus I need to figure out which of my Mosins is most accurate.
Speaking of which, I went with the .311 bullets because when I slugged the bores of my rifles, only the Finn's were at .310. The worst was the M44 at .314. So I thought I'd split the difference and go up .001" to help fill that gap. When I took the new Finn to the range it was as inaccurate as any of the others until about shot 10. I think they need some fouling to fill in the grooves to help with stabilizing the pressures in the barrel. The Bulgy milsurp is actually .3105 so I wasn't doing myself that much of a favor (but every little bit helps, I suppose).
This morning I decided that I needed to do something. I'm tired of reading, video games make me feel like I'm wasting too much time (plus they make me loopy when I go to do something else), there's nothing on TV but I'm out of propane so I can't forge anything (it's been snowing and I think there's at least 6" of snow out there- Artemis (my car) wouldn't make it to the gas station and back). Reloading it is.
The only issue I had was that I needed a crescent wrench to lock the dies in place and even then there was a little movement. The Forster collet bullet puller pulled the bullets like a charm. It needed less than a 1/4 turn to lock onto the bullet and then to release it. The Lee bullet loading die inserted the bullets like a charm and the instructions with the Lee dies gave me good info about the minimum bullet lengths. I measured against the Bulgy for comparison- five of them had a 0.0035" variance. Mine had about 0.0015" variance.
I didn't load my own powder or seat my own primers because I don't have any brass that's reloadable. I could make a hydraulic piston to press out the Berdan primers but then I can't find Berdan primers to replace them. But overall I'm pretty proud of the steps I took and I hope to go to the range before the end of the year to give them a test.
Enter Midway USA. I had talked about reloading earlier this year when I was really, really into guns and their gadgets. With that in mind I ordered a basic Lee loading press (the 40th anniversary pack that included the reloading manual), a bullet puller, the loading dies for 7.62x54R and 300 Speer 150gr soft point spitzer point Japanese 303 (.311) bullets. Phew! That's a lot of jargon.
I read the manual while waiting for a ferry on the night before opening day of late season. That's a LOT of info, but frankly it's mostly how great the Lee company is and the history of their products. It's also fairly intimidating- you can see where the company is coming from.
I put the press in the closet with my hunting stuff- I won't be doing any 'yote hunting this year so I don't need any soft points. Plus I need to figure out which of my Mosins is most accurate.
Speaking of which, I went with the .311 bullets because when I slugged the bores of my rifles, only the Finn's were at .310. The worst was the M44 at .314. So I thought I'd split the difference and go up .001" to help fill that gap. When I took the new Finn to the range it was as inaccurate as any of the others until about shot 10. I think they need some fouling to fill in the grooves to help with stabilizing the pressures in the barrel. The Bulgy milsurp is actually .3105 so I wasn't doing myself that much of a favor (but every little bit helps, I suppose).
This morning I decided that I needed to do something. I'm tired of reading, video games make me feel like I'm wasting too much time (plus they make me loopy when I go to do something else), there's nothing on TV but I'm out of propane so I can't forge anything (it's been snowing and I think there's at least 6" of snow out there- Artemis (my car) wouldn't make it to the gas station and back). Reloading it is.
The only issue I had was that I needed a crescent wrench to lock the dies in place and even then there was a little movement. The Forster collet bullet puller pulled the bullets like a charm. It needed less than a 1/4 turn to lock onto the bullet and then to release it. The Lee bullet loading die inserted the bullets like a charm and the instructions with the Lee dies gave me good info about the minimum bullet lengths. I measured against the Bulgy for comparison- five of them had a 0.0035" variance. Mine had about 0.0015" variance.
I didn't load my own powder or seat my own primers because I don't have any brass that's reloadable. I could make a hydraulic piston to press out the Berdan primers but then I can't find Berdan primers to replace them. But overall I'm pretty proud of the steps I took and I hope to go to the range before the end of the year to give them a test.
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